(This is a copy of the printed instructions that are included with each club.)
CONGRATULATIONS! The DIVNICK is the most innovative golf club in 50 years. It combines the latest golf club physics (perimeter weighting, progressive offset shaft alignment, low center of gravity and extra-large sweet spot) with over 34 loft options using a unique vernier transmission hidden in the club. You can select from several putters, drivers, all the irons, multiple wedges, and even half lofts. The locking lever needs only to be finger-tight and requires no separate clumsy leverage tool. Simply stated, there has never before been anything like the DIVNICK! We know you'll enjoy it for years to come.
To ensure your enjoyment, please read all the directions, warnings, and usage strategy and keep these instructions in the bag for reference. We recommend that you practice adjusting the lofts at home before playing. Then spend a little time at the driving range (off real grass rather than mats if possible). You will learn the distance of each loft and discover which loft gives you the best distance. It may surprise you that it will not be the "D" which is discussed later in this Manual.
TO EXTEND THE SHAFT, hold as shown above and twist and pull until loose from the shaft socket, then swiftly pull the ends apart so that the shaft "snap-locks" into its fully-extended position. It will not lock if opened slowly with strength. It must be "snapped" open. You may need to "re-extend" the shaft several times during play until the inside and outside surfaces are broken in (smoothed) and lock securely.
CAUTION: WHEN COLLAPSING, KEEP YOUR HANDS ON THE GRIP AND HEAD. DO NOT HOLD THE SHAFT BELOW THE HEAD WHICH MAY CAUSE PINCHING WHEN IT COLLAPSES.
TO COLLAPSE THE SHAFT, hold the head as shown with the toe of the club pointing away from you. Do no hold it with the toe in the heel of your hand. Strike the grip-end of the shaft on smooth hard concrete. The harder and smoother the surface, the better. Do not attempt to col-lapse the shaft on grass, wood, tile, or carpeted floors. A swift "wristy" action is required. Power and muscle does not work, so don't hold the head and grip with a "full hand," grip it lightly with your fingers and thumb. After the first joint releases, keep your hands on the extreme ends to avoid pinching, and strike the grip end onto concrete again until joint releases. It's much easier to do this on one knee rather than bending over.
In rare circumstances, the shaft may be difficult to collapse, especially if it is stored in it's extended position which we do not recommend. In almost all cases, it is because of improper technique holding the club too tightly and not snapping it into concrete swiftly enough. However, sometimes it may be necessary to pour hot water over the outer section to expand it and immediately re-striking it onto concrete.
CAUTION: While playing, do not unscrew the lever more than one turn in order to avoid losing parts in the grass. Make sure the lever is tight during storage.
TO ADJUST THE LOFT, hold the club head in your left hand with the shaft tucked under your right arm. Unscrew the locking lever (counter clockwise) with your right hand 1 turn so that the transmission can "shift" both ways. Rotate the head first one way until it clicks, then the other until it clicks again. Each PAIR of back-and-forth clicks automatically ADVANCES the head loft (an almost imperceptible 2 degrees) no matter which way you click first. Ratchet back and forth until the index arrow on the head points to the desired loft and re-tighten the nut (clockwise). Be sure to look straight down on the marks. Do not view from an angle. It is very quick and easy to "speed shift". Grossly rotate the index arrow on the head so it is on or under the desired loft mark and then ratchet in pairs of shifts to a perfect alignment.
The index lines are odd numbered clubs as marked, and the middle of the spaces between the lines are even clubs (2,4,6,8, and pitching wedge) - all traditional loft angles. Half-lofts are just above or below the lines.
The DIVNICK offers the ultimate in fine-tuning your game. Not only does it provide half lofts for those "in between" distances, you have several wedge options including the standard pitching and sand angles on up to super wedges far beyond the last index mark. You will notice that we have two sand wedge marks. The first is a standard 52-degree loft, the second is a 60-degree super wedge with 3 lofts in between.
Tighten the lever "snugly" so that the transmission locks securely. However, it does not require excessive force. Normal tightening is enough to hold for one hit since you usually change lofts for each subsequent hit. Since you are only using finger-tight pressure, repeated hits such as at a practice range will loosen the lever so you should check and retighten it after each shot while on the range. Lubricate the nut and washer between uses.
LEVER ALIGNMENT: The lever is factory-aligned so that when tight, it is approximately parallel to, or slightly in front of the face of the club. It will not align with the shaft which varies with the loft positions. After you use the club for a while and the transmission and threads break in, the alignment will progress beyond parallel and you will want to re-set the lever as follows: 1) Pry it off with a knife-edge or sharp screw driver. You may need to loosen it a little first to create a gap so you can fit a screw driver behind the edge of the lever. 2) Push it back on, realigned parallel to the face.
WASHING: Periodically, unscrew the locking lever and separate the transmission. Rinse off the parts with soap and water. Let them dry completely, then lightly oil the teeth and threads. When reassembling, be sure to match the teeth. The ring gear only fits on one way. The spring washer must also go back on the way it came off so it doesn't dig into the plastic lever. Lubricate all the moving parts with any light oil or spray. The custom grips allow you to wash them with soap and water to maintain the tacky feel. Be careful not to get water inside the shaft sections.
LIE ANGLE: You will notice that the toe of the DIVNICK is up a little for your full-length shots and the heel is up when putting. This is because of the 64-degree lie angle which is an average of irons and putter.
DRIVING: The main aspect of a driver which yields distance is its length which translates into club-head speed at the point of impact. Therefore, assuming optimum swing timing and sweet-spot contact, it is impossible for the DIVNICK to drive the ball as far as a conventional driver because it is not as long, as discussed in the Disadvantages section. But because it's the same length for every swing, many golfers will be able to "groove" their swing and might find that their drives are more consistently down the middle of the fairway with longer aver-age distance. Because the 38" DIVNICK is the length of a 4 iron, you will get maxi-mum length performance out of the 3 or 4 iron setting, not the driver. Given the physics of the shaft, the "D" position will not hit the ball farther, only lower, and it will be very difficult to get the ball up. Tee the ball as you would for an iron tee shot regardless of the loft selection.
Since the 38" DIVNICK is the length of a conventional 4-iron, when set to lofts above that, it will hit the ball farther than normal. This allows you to go to a steeper loft which will result in a higher trajectory and allow the ball to stop or back up more effectively, or you can choke down on the grip and simulate your club's lengths if you wish.
PUTTING: The other extreme, in terms of club-length and head shape, is putting. To approximate your normal putting stance, we simply suggest that you "choke down" on the grip, perhaps with your right hand down on the shaft a little. Use the two white sighting lines for assistance in alignment.
IF THE CLUB IS WET from rain or washing, towel-dry it and spray some lubricant on the internal parts including into the loosened shaft joints and store it in a LOOSENED position.
SHAFT LENGTHS: We produce two standard lengths: The 38" and the 37" which is recommended for players less than 5'8" tall. After addressing the ball and taking a few swings, if you wish you had the other length, you may send your shaft back to us and ask for the other length. This offer presumes that the shaft and hosel socket is not scratched or otherwise unfit for resale.
REPLACEMENT PARTS: If you ever need any replacement parts, please call. If you need to replace the nut, it is a 5/16 x 24 thread grade 8 nut. If you keep it lubricated, it will last permanently.